| I used a of scarp piece of aluminum
angle to fabricate angel the bracket to hold the power adapter. Polish the
aluminum to your satisfaction. I used sandpaper and worked my way down to
400 grit. You can, if you wish purchase rubbing compound and 0 grade and
down to 0000 steel wool and give it a chrome look. I did not do this at
this time. The bracket is then pop riveted to the bracket you built to mount
the GPS.
I purchased the power adapter at the local Marine place. Make sure it
is a true Marine product. Read the back of the package, it should say
"Marine or Aircraft Quality Stainless Steel". Mine cost about
$14.00 US dollars out the door. I installed the power point at this time
and tightened down. I soldered the ground wire in place and replaced
the hot wire nipple with a nut and used a round automotive lug. I also
used locktite on the nut. The fuse holder is something you may want to
relocate at the end of the run inside the headlight housing. I just preferred
to have it in and easier location to access. But, it does not look
very clean to have it zip tied under the bracket. I am using color coded
12V wire from radio shack.
Next, remove the headlight from the head light housing. As you can see
it is a little busy inside, but there will be plenty of room. The reason
for tapping power from inside the headlight housing is that it turns with
the handlebars. This reduces the movement and flexing of the wire
from your power point. I highly recommend that you run a separate power
wire from the battery to the headlight housing. This will give you one
wire you can tap into anytime for your accessories. And put a fuse on that
wire, better safe than sorry later. Mine also controls the auxiliary
lights on the crash bars. The little black box is the relay for the crash
bar lights, the one with the blue tape on it. The yellow wire is the high beam
wire that switches the relay. I am using the existing factory ground wire
for the headlight (Black with White Stripe). This should work fine, since
the electrical system will not support an accessory that would pull enough
power to over load the factory head light ground wire.
You can now route your wires into the headlight housing and cut to
length. Leave a little slack so you can work with them. This is also a
good time to cut to length your chrome
shielding wrap. This not only hides the wires in pretty chrome, but
also protects the wires from rubbing the back opening of the headlight housing.
Putting your chrome
shielding wrap on now would be a lot easier.
Make your connections and test
before soldering the connections. Watch the polarity! The center post on
the power point adapter is the + side. Attach it to your power wire from
the battery. Below are some finished pictures showing the data display.
Also note it is displaying the bikes battery voltage.
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