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GPS Wiring into the Bike electrical system (adding a power point)

Click the Images on left to enlarge and increase quality.

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I used a of scarp piece of aluminum angle to fabricate angel the bracket to hold the power adapter. Polish the aluminum to your satisfaction. I used sandpaper and worked my way down to 400 grit. You can, if you wish purchase rubbing compound and 0 grade and down to 0000 steel wool and give it a chrome look. I did not do this at this time. The bracket is then pop riveted to the bracket you built to mount the GPS.  

I purchased the power adapter at the local Marine place. Make sure it is a true Marine product. Read the back of the package, it should say "Marine or Aircraft Quality Stainless Steel". Mine cost about $14.00 US dollars out the door. I installed the power point at this time and tightened down.  I soldered the ground wire in place and replaced the hot wire nipple with a nut and used a round automotive lug. I also used locktite on the nut. The fuse holder is something you may want to relocate at the end of the run inside the headlight housing. I just preferred to have it in and easier location to access.  But, it does not look very clean to have it zip tied under the bracket. I am using color coded 12V wire from radio shack.

Next, remove the headlight from the head light housing. As you can see it is a little busy inside, but there will be plenty of room. The reason for tapping power from inside the headlight housing is that it turns with the handlebars. This reduces the movement and  flexing of the wire from your power point. I highly recommend that you run a separate power wire from the battery to the headlight housing. This will give you one wire you can tap into anytime for your accessories. And put a fuse on that wire, better safe than sorry later. Mine also controls the auxiliary lights on the crash bars. The little black box is the relay for the crash bar lights, the one with the blue tape on it. The yellow wire is the high beam wire that switches the relay. I am using the existing factory ground wire for the headlight (Black with White Stripe). This should work fine, since the electrical system will not support an accessory that would pull enough power to over load the factory head light ground wire.

You can now route your wires into the headlight housing and cut to length. Leave a little slack so you can work with them. This is also a good time to cut to length your chrome shielding wrap. This not only hides the wires in pretty chrome, but also protects the wires from rubbing the back opening of the headlight housing. Putting your chrome shielding wrap on now would be a lot easier. 

Make your connections and test before soldering the connections. Watch the polarity! The center post on the power point adapter is the + side. Attach it to your power wire from the battery. Below are some finished pictures showing the data display. Also note it is displaying  the bikes battery voltage.

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Copyright 2001 by Kathy Edens Distributing. All rights reserved.Revised: 18 Nov 2001 12:34:34 -0500 .

    Paul and Kathy Edens Mig Numbers 1542 & 1583 LC1500 &  Lowered LC1500  cyclenuts@arcycle.com

Copyright 2001 by Kathy Edens Distributing. All rights reserved.Revised: 18 Nov 2001 12:34:34 -0500 .

    Paul and Kathy Edens Mig Numbers 1542 & 1583 LC1500 &  Lowered LC1500  cyclenuts@arcycle.com